Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media.Yeferson cossio blowjob
When I say looking into buying, I mean seeing if they are decent and researching. I am not on a hunt for this machine. I have experience with a series and didn't have a good experience. They has some quirks, and always breaking down, and really lacked in power. However, I used a and it was a whole new machine. That machine was a ripper and could chip. I was told that the first s that came out were recalled and you could have replaced it with a Any truth to this?
Posted 05 August - PM.
Posted 04 August - AM all you guys on here that run these what have you noticed about your core in your bales ive done everything i can and even talked to the service department at vermeer and they dont have a solution and my hay wont keep in the bales even if its bone dry when baled. Posted 04 August - AM What type of hay?
Is it cured before you bale or just reading dry? Posted 04 August - AM its as cured as cured gets its so dry sometimes it makes so much dust i cant see the baler and the bales out of this m wont keep at all every one will mold and the core is nowhere near consistent sometimes its as small as a melon and sometimes its a 3 foot star and everything in between im about ready to trade it for a deere.
Posted 04 August - PM Is there a density difference between the core and the outer of the bales? I've wondered at what speed I should feed the begining of the bale, with the hesston rounder I had to feed it fast to get both sides filled before I read about the twin twinky windrows and that old baler didn't make a very dense bale compared to my Super J but still had very little if any mold in the bales.
I guess what i am getting at is if the core is soft could it be drawing in moisture? Posted 04 August - PM I haven't had any problems with my sm. Last year it was new and I had the adjusters for the core loose like they reccomend and we tightened them up this year. It will make bricks when you set the density up.
Haven't had any problems with the core spoiling. I would almost bet if you had a running along side it in the same field the bales from that one would have molding cores too. Good Luck! Posted 05 August - AM Are you watching the density gauge and ever notice it not going up on some bales as you make the bale?
The core never starts to roll. It's always started a bale perfectly in the past. The belts are routed just like the old ones, the shear bolts in the starter roller are ok. What am I missing?? Posted 04 June - PM. The belts don't spin with the gate closed and no hay in the machine, it's only after you get a core formed that the belts start to spin. That's how it was before the new belts and it worked fine. I started with the pickup teeth cam setting in it's original location which was roughly in the middle, and adjusted it both ways with no better results.
It's like the hay isn't jumping up on top of the drum. I was considering welding some keystock across it in between the round bars that's already welded on there. I did that to our old gehl baler it helped a lot probably couldn't hurt. I've changed the pressure in the air bags from one extreme to the other and several settings in between with no success.
Posted 04 June - PM It's like the hay isn't jumping up on top of the drum. Posted 04 June - PM I did that to our old gehl baler it helped a lot probably couldn't hurt. Posted 04 June - PM I've changed the pressure in the air bags from one extreme to the other and several settings in between with no success. Posted 05 June - PM The teeth should drop between between the bolts on the stripper bands.
The belts should just turn when empty. If lowering the air pressure makes no difference, check for a stop bolt near the density cylinder to lower the belt tightener a little more. Check your cam bearings. Check your roller bearings.
Cozyacres likes this. Posted 05 June - PM I'll double check the pickup settings here in a day or two once I finish up planting beans.The blades may also have been sharpened too often and are no longer suitable for the task. If less than 28mm remains per blade, replace them. The anvil may have become worn, in which case you can rotate it, but if this does not work, you will need to replace it. Finally, the distance between the anvil and the blades may be wider than optimal and this situation can be rectified by simply adjusting the distance.
Troubleshooting Problems with Your Wood Chipper. Written by Bipasha Bhatia. Reviewed by Gabriel Connor Salter. In many cases, it is a small problem that causes your wood chipper not to perform optimally.
Poor Ejection from the Spout The drive belts may be severely worn or may have become slack and all that is required is to adjust it, but badly worn belts will need to be replaced. There is not sufficient drive which indicates that there is not enough power from the engine. In certain cases, there will be insufficient RPM on the machine and you need to simply increase speed so as to increase revs.
The ejector wings have become worn and need to either be adjusted or replaced.
The facing plate may be blocking the flow of chips in which case speed needs to be increased. The rollers are not spinning satisfactorily.Pueblo crime stoppers
There may not be enough hydraulic fluidwhich is simply corrected by a refill. The rollers may be blocked and will require cleaning.
BC1000XL Wood Chipper
The flow valve may have been unscrewed too far and needs adjustment. The revolution guard may be preventing the rollers from turning. Correct this by increasing the RPM on the motor. The bypass valve could be dirty and simply requires cleaning. The rollers are not pulling satisfactorily. There may not be sufficient hydraulic fluid flow, in which case the flow valve requires adjustment. The hydraulic fluid is hotter than acceptable and you will need to turn the machine off until the fault can be determined.
The hydraulic fluid pump may be worn or defective and in both instances will need to be replaced.Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media New media New comments Search media.
Can you help diagnose whats wrong with my chipper?
Thread starter Explorerdan Start date Nov 15, Nov 15, Explorerdan ArboristSite Lurker. Joined Nov 15, Messages 14 Age Any help would be greatly appreciated, I have a Vermeer bcxl Chipper.
The problem is the feeder drum only works in reverse. I have tested the safety switches all are good checked with a meter closed and open positions. Also tested the directional switches on the top bar. The status lights are green for emergency stop. Meaning the circuit for the safety switches is operating correctly.
When a safety is tripped the light goes out until safety is released. The RPM status light is also lit green and there does seem to be the propper increase with voltage with engine RPM's The foreward enable light is not lit??
The foreward on light is not lit?? When put into reverse the reverse light does come on.Vermeer 19 AX can't eat a tooth pick
I have checked the fuses both 10 amp fuses are good and have correct voltage. I dont know what else to check??? It seems like the feeder drum should work because everything I know to check is working as it should.
I am out of Ideas I switched the power leads at the Hydraulic Solenoids. I can made the feeder drum go forewards by doing this, So it does not seem like a mechanical or hydraulic problem. It has to be electrical. If I test for power at the foreward control switch at the top bar control, I get no voltage at all.
Not sure why Pud ArboristSite Operative. Im guessing youve had the top cover off above the mechanical linkages from the direction bar?Log in or Sign up. Sign up now! The U. Chamber of Commerce offered guidance on the loan. Click here to learn more. Messages: Messages: 3, Messages: 2, RockSet N' GradeNov 29, Diesel right? Saw the same problems when on the farm and with my own tractor. Glow plugs are burned out.
Should only hold them on for about 10 seconds and they should develop sufficient heat. Any longer than that and they are deteriorated and or damage themselves. SteinerNov 29, Messages: 6, We plow snow with it, don't keep it in a heated shop at all. If the battery is in good condition, we run the plugs for about a minute or two and she fires right up.
We probably should replace the plugs, I'm sure they're far from as good as they could be, but whatever. Runs rough for a little bit, especially if it's below 15 degrees or so, but she'll start. It's been my experience that Kubota diesels start hard in the cold, but I've never seen any problem with the hard starts, been doing it this way for years and she's still going with 5, hours on her.Implement Alley.
Shop Now. View Cart. Allis Chalmers. Farmall IH. Ford 9N,2N,8N. John Deere. Massey Ferguson. Vermeer won't start a bale. View previous topic :: View next topic. I baled junky rained on hay all day today, went good. Started on my good new clean hay and it will absolutely not start a roll. Tried everything in the manual. Tighten the load spring, loosen the load spring etc etc etc. Any help? It will load the baler fine, then the core sits there and wont spin.
If I o very slowly, like crawling, it sometimes will start one. It tries to roll a core and then it starts to slip the belts and won't do anything. Any help would be appreciated. Back to top. My super I did that once.
Ended up being a sheard shear bolt on the starter roll. On mine, when standing behind the baler looking at it, there is a little drop down shield on the right side. Replaced the sheared bolt and it was back to a baling machine. Only did it once in the 20, or so bales I have put through it. I have no idea why it ever sheared in the first place. I had one once, I always thought that the belts that came with that machine did not have enough texture to themsome farmers here would weld 5 or 6 - 4'x 1" x 1" angle iron pieces to the main roller horizontally to get some traction and get the ball rolling, so to speak.
I sold mine later and swapped to square baling everything and hired my neighbor to round bale for me when needed.
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